Tradition in a bottle (2)

Italy prides itself on its role as the world's leading wine exporter by volume. On the eve of this year's Vinexpo, the organization reported the country is now the fourth largest supplier of wine to China, with exports rising 261 percent between 2007 and 2011.

"Today, imported wines account for almost 20 percent of the full volume of wine drunk in China and are worth 44.42 percent of the total retail value of wines sold in China," Vinexpo's chief executive Robert Beynat explains.

"France remains the leading supplier of the Chinese market, following by Australia, Spain and Italy. Three of these four countries - Spain being the exception - are famous for their pinot grigio.

"As the Chinese market is becoming more mature, consumers have improved their knowledge of wine, and they still are curious about products. Instead of choosing a chardonnay or sauvignon, people want to taste some different varieties of wines, such as pinot grigio."

Back at the winery, Venica has just taken us on a tour of the production facilities, explaining the traditions of making pinot grigio. He tells about his winery sticks to a method that gently macerates the grapes, pressing them under the CO2 that prevents oxidation while maintaining the juice's natural pink-orange color.

"You'll find that, the darker the color, the more intense the flavor," Venica explains.

"And the cheaper the wine, the less color you will have in your pinot grigio."

Venica & Venica's own Jesera pinot grigio has a rich, almost coppery tinge and has been acclaimed by the likes of noted US wine critic James Suckling as "full and flavorful".

Venica puts its success down to the traditions his family follows and the region's unique climate. The location between the nearby Alps and the Adriatic Sea means vines are treated to cool nights and hot days.

"It's ironic that the things you hear us complaining about every day - the cold at night and the heat in the day - are the things that make this wine so good," Venica says.

"These conditions are perfect for helping the grape to grow and to produce their natural flavors."

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